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If you leave the Croatian coast and head into the Dalmatian hinterland, you’ll encounter a landscape that seems like something out of another world. The town of Imotski is the center of a region that is home to no fewer than nine lakes. This area has recently been designated part of the UNESCO Biokovo-Imotski Lakes Global Geopark—a distinction that underscores the geological uniqueness of this region.
While many travelers visit only the famous crater lakes right next to the city, the region’s gentle heart lies hidden in the headwaters of the Vrljika River.
In Focus: The Magical Sources of Vrljika
The Vrljika River is the lifeline of the Imotski Plain. Its headwaters are a place of absolute silence. Here lie two of the nine lakes, which are often referred to as the eyes of nature.
Dva oka (Two Eyes) These two circular spring-fed lakes are a natural phenomenon. Viewed from a slightly elevated vantage point, they look like two deep-blue eyes gazing up at the sky. The water is so clear that you can see all the way to the bottom of the karst rock. It’s an ideal spot for a peaceful picnic or for watching the reflections of the surrounding hills in the water.
Vučja draga Just a short distance away lies the Vučja draga source. Nestled among reeds and old willow trees, this place has an almost mystical atmosphere. The water bubbles up constantly from the ground here and feeds the river, which is known for its rare Adriatic trout—a testament to the region’s excellent water quality.
An Overview of the Other Seven Lakes
To complete the picture of the Nine Lakes, we must not forget the other geological wonders of the Imotska krajina:
- Modro jezero (Blue Lake): Probably the best-known lake, located right on the outskirts of town in a deep crater. Its water level fluctuates dramatically; in the summer, it’s perfect for swimming, but in the fall, it sometimes dries up completely.
- Crveno jezero (Red Lake): One of the deepest water-filled sinkholes in the world. Its steep, reddish rock walls are impressive, but inaccessible to swimmers.
- Galipovac: The largest of the three lakes in the municipality of Lokvičići, known for its dramatic setting at the foot of steep cliffs.
- Knezovića jezero: A small, wild lake near Galipovac.
- Lake Mamića: The third of the Lokvičići lakes, surrounded by unspoiled nature.
- Prološko blato: A vast wetland with a lake, in the middle of which lies Manastir Island with the ruins of an old monastery.
- Zeleno jezero (Green Lake): An artificial lake near Ričice that captivates visitors with its emerald-green color and is perfect for water sports enthusiasts.
The Best Viewpoints (Vidikovci)
To truly grasp the size of these lakes, it’s worth visiting these specific spots:
Topana Lookout (Blue Lake) Right next to the old Topana Fortress in Imotski, you’ll find the classic view into the deep crater of the Blue Lake. From here, a winding path also leads down to the water.
Roter See Viewpoint: Right along the road toward Ričice, there is a well-constructed viewing platform with a safety railing. From here, you can look almost 250 meters straight down to the surface of Roter See.
Vidikovac Galipovac (Lokvičići) This is one of the most spectacular viewpoints in the region. From a wooden platform, you can see both Lake Galipovac and the vast Imotski Plain at the same time. It is located on the road between Lokvičići and Proložac.
A Closer Look at Dva oka To make out the shape of “Two Eyes” (Dva oka), you shouldn’t stand right on the shore; instead, climb the small hill just west of the sources. The view of the Vrljika sources is best from up there.
Directions: How to Find the Lake Paradise
Imotski is located in the Dalmatian hinterland (Zagora), about 30 to 45 minutes from the Makarska Riviera.
Directions from the coast (Makarska/Baška Voda): Drive north on State Road D8 and take the entrance to the Sveti Ilija Tunnel (toward the A1 highway). After the tunnel, follow the signs toward Imotski. The drive takes you through a picturesque hilly landscape straight into the center of town.
Directions via the A1 highway (from Split or Zagreb): Take the Zagvozd exit. Follow the country road toward Imotski. The drive from the exit to the town takes about 20 minutes.
Directions to the Vrljika sources (Dva oka): From Imotski, drive west (toward Proložac). Near the village of Glavina Donja, you’ll find signs pointing to the Vrljika sources and “Dva oka.” Parking is available within walking distance of the spring basins.
A tip for explorers
You can find all additional information on the website of the “Biokovo-Imotski Lakes Geopark”
Please plan on spending at least one full day on the entire lake loop. While the Blue and Red Lakes are very easy to access, the Vrljika Sources and the Lokvičići Lakes require a little more time for short walks, but they reward you with a tranquility rarely found on the coast.
